16 Aug 2017

Summer Alpine Rock & Snow

by | posted in: 2017 | 1

It is our third summer adventure in the Mont Blanc massif for Dave C and myself. We now have a good understanding of the cable car & ski lifts in the area and how they significantly improve access into the high mountains. This year we are joined by two friends and competent climbers Dave H and Ben. The plan is to get a few steady multi pitch rock routes in first on the Aiguille Rouges at circa 2000 metres before heading up to the high mountains above 3000 metres. Our strategy is to build confidence on rock and aid our acclimatisation. We already have several routes planned for the week, but are prepared to change these depending on current weather conditions, overcrowding and the stability of the snow.

 

It’s not supposed to rain here

Our first morning is greeted with the arrival of rain, not the start we had anticipated. The four of us sit in a bakery in Chamonix centre drinking coffee whilst watching the thunder and lightning show outside. We discuss alternative plans ranging from via ferrata, a jolt through the MB tunnel into nearby Italy, or even heading north for forty minutes into Switzerland for some sport climbing. As luck would have it, the rain suddenly stops and the sun comes out from behind the clouds. Decision made, its back to plan A, to take the Flegere lift up to the Index for some Gneiss multi pitch climbing.

 

Looking back down the tricky slab 1st pitch of Nez Rouge

 

We split into two teams, Team 1 – to climb Nez Rouge (D 5A) a six pitch, 180-metre climb. Team 2 – to climb the fantastic South East Ridge (AD 4C) of the Index, a six pitch, 130-metre route with a series of exposed abseils. Dave C and I will tackle Nez Rouge on the Aiguille de la Gliere having previously enjoyed the South East Ridge a few years back. Ideally we will get to the top of our route first and snap a photo of Team 2 standing on the summit at 2595 metres. As we’re the only climbers on the mountain today, we ascend with no delays and get our photo of Team 2 at the summit.

Team 2 on the summit of The Index

 

Big Boots on Le Brevent

Our second day starts with the usual deciphering of the weather forecast, Chamonix Meteo appears to be the most accurate for the area. The plan today is to tackle a route in a different region wearing mountaineering boots. Mic est maousse AD+ 5a, a 5 pitch, 105 metre climb on Le Brevent. We set off early, keen to start before the crowds arrive and get back down before the late afternoon/early evening thunderstorms arrive.

We take the Telepherique du Brevent to the top station just below the summit at 2525 metres and follow an adventurous, scenic, descent route for approximately forty-five minutes to get to the start of the climb. We make good use of the in situ iron ladders to down climb where necessary. Unlike North Wales’s snakes and ladders all the rungs are in place and they’re firmly bolted to the rock. As we approach the base of the climb we can see a few groups above making progress up the initial arête.

 

Alpine scrambling up the arete

 

Looking at the terrain we agree to move together initially and only pitch the steeper more exposed ground as required. Its pitch three before a belay plate makes a brief entrance for an exposed ramp and steep corner, which Dave C makes light work of in his Scarpa phantom lights. It’s a final scramble along the ridge before descending down to the foot of the crux 5A pitch. We stop here for lunch, and enjoy the view across the valley overlooking the snow covered Mont Blanc massif; the sun is cracking the flags.

The Mont Blanc massif

 

It’s my lead on the next pitch. A tricky layback start leads to a groove that is well protected – the climbing steepens above to a hand jamming crack and exposed flakes to finish. A 20-metre abseil off the top leads us to a final ridge – once again we move together to complete the route and then head back up the track to the summit of Le Brevent. “Ice cream all round I believe”! As we return back down to the valley floor via the ski lift we see the dark clouds gathering way in the distance, we’re happy with the time it’s taken us today.

 

A tricky layback start

 

Bed & Breakfast at 2702 metres

With a few rock routes at altitude now under our belts it’s time to head for the high mountains. Our plan today is to take the bus to the end of the valley to Le Tour and head up to the Albert Premier refuge where we’ll stay for the night. We have done our homework and spoken to the Chamonix Compagnie des Guides, so have a plan in place. The route we have in mind has seen some recent ascents, so we are fairly confident of summiting if conditions are still good. If not, we have a plan B and C just in case… The walk up to the hut takes in some stunning scenery, which flanks the glacier de Tour, presenting us with cascading white water falls, huge crevasses and a clear view of the Aiguilles Rouges on the opposite side of the valley. We can’t help but stop and take photos at regular intervals.

 

A scenic walk up to the hut

 

Day trip to Switzerland anyone…
The following morning we start with a 4am breakfast before heading off up the scramble behind the hut heading for the glacier. We rope up as a four on a flat boulder field; ahead, the glacier is scoured, with little snow evident. We push on into the darkness heading south eastwards – our next feature a significant band of rock running east to west, which we need to cross at its furthest eastern point. Day light starts to break and reveals a moody sky with dark, ominous looking clouds heading our way.

 

Crossing the glacier at first light

 

Our plan is to take on the Arête de la Table AD 5A, which is a six pitch 450 metre climb, and then on to the south summit of the Aiguille de Tour. As we pass beneath the granite cliffs we hear nearby rock fall from above; looking up we see large boulders bouncing down the mountainside. We continue, heading towards our entry point for the climb, the couloir. When we arrive, we note the snow is thin and the risk of further rock fall is too high to continue. So we revert to plan B, the south summit, which is a much safer alternative in these conditions. We move on together, the groups’ disappointment is evident, but we continue on crossing the glacier, past a huge tower of rock and up through the Col du Superior at 3289 metres. It’s a steep pull up through the col, the wind is howling through the gap and there is a fair bit of lose rock getting kicked off by other parties. We cross the col, entering Switzerland and reach the Trient glacier; we are greeted by bright sunshine and an eerie stillness. We head north, passing the Aiguille Purtscheller on our left. Access on to the Aiguille du Tour is restricted somewhat by a Bergshrund, we have to cross it at its narrowest point on the right hand side and then make a tricky traverse back above it leftwards to gain access onto the rock. We then scramble our way to the ridge, finally summiting at 3529 metres, and are rewarded by a spectacular view across the French and Swiss Alps. A few photos for the album and then it’s off again, heading back to the Charamillon col de Balme ski lift; lasts one is 5pm, loads of time…

 

Heading down from the South Summit

 

Rest day or Not

Today is a planned rest day so we make sure all alarm clocks are off following the previous early start and enjoy a lie in. We decide to have a leisurely stroll and explore Chamonix town centre and it’s plethora of restaurants, cafes and outdoor shops. However, by mid-afternoon we’re done and some easy sport climbing is suggested. Les Gaillands, Forestiers area provides the evening’s entertainment with over 20 routes, single and multi-pitch ranging from 4b to 6b+. Well worth a visit if you’re ever staying in the local area and fancy a quick roadside climbing fix.

 

Sport Climbing in the valley

 

Oops, here comes another adventure

The weather for our final day once again looks great, we agree on something not too challenging, but enough to keep us entertained. La Somone D-5b on Le Brevent appears to be a good choice with eight pitches and 205 metres of enjoyable climbing. Once again we head off to the top station of Le Brevent ski lift. We then descend on foot into the clouds, passing two climbing crags and walk beneath the main cliff. We follow the track downhill until we arrive at the toe of a buttress and see a French guide and his client racking up. We assume this is our agreed route and exchange pleasantry with them before they set off and disappear out of sight.

 

Disappearing into the clouds

 

Once again we rack up as two teams, Dave C leads off on the first pitch, which is steep but steady and seems a little harder than our guidebook suggests. I arrive at the belay and prepare to lead through. The guidebook says it’s a ten metre easy down climb, in reality it’s a 5A slab going up. “I think this part of the route has changed!” says Dave, as I start off. He’s right, this section doesn’t register with me either; but I carry on upwards anyway. Once at the belay point, I get the chance to speak to the French Guide’s client as he is just setting off. I ask quickly in my best French accent, “What route are you doing?” “Crackoukass”, he shouts down. “Yes, lovely climbing isn’t it”, I reply automatically. I’m actually thinking – Shiiit, we’re on the wrong bloody route and it’s the one we didn’t fancy doing, as it was three grades harder. At this point I also realise we don’t have the guidebook…

Minutes later, Dave joins me at the belay station and I inform him of the breaking news. He handles it well and is happy to lead through up the next pitch. We can see it’s an OK slab start but have no idea what grade it is or where it leads to. Half way up and Dave shouts “which way?”, his inclination is to go right. I reply “I think it’s left and then straight up!” After some deliberation, the sport climber in him takes over and he tackles the slab head on. It looks tough, but he battles his way up on some tiny crimpy holds, managing to get a cam in for some protection; before long he is at the top red faced and out of breath. “Good effort pal, are you safe?” I shout. “About as safe as it gets, I’m on top of a f**ing pillar!” I hope there’s enough room for two of us up there, I think, as I start to climb. A short while later, after bridging my way up through a chimney (I take the trad route), I join him on the top. Believe me, it’s definitely not designed for two! The only way off is to untie from the rope and abseil off. Fifteen minutes later, we’re both stood on a shelf looking back up at the huge pillar of rock; we can hear Ben on the other side, battling his way up the pillar.

We now have two options: make a series of abseils to try and retrieve our rope and bail off the route, or tackle what we believe is a 6A corner leading to a large hand jamming crack. We both agree the corner looks like a great pitch – I take the lead, onwards and upwards for another fifteen metres of fantastic rock starting with a layback crack. I stop halfway up and manage a hands-off rest, perched on top of a flake. I snap a photo of Ben and Dave H on top of the pillar – then continue on – I arrive at a large belay ledge and bring up Dave C. From here we can see an easy down climb/scramble and a great spot for lunch; we’ve certainly worked up an appetite!

 

Ben and Dave H tackling the Pillar

 

Within a short while all four of us are sat on the rocks laughing at the situation we had just got ourselves out of. We settle for the relatively easy last two pitches up the exposed arête of La Somone; the finish to our original planned route that leads to the summit. It’s about two hours later before we’re sat outside La Bergerie de Planpraz, at the half way ski lift station, enjoying a well-deserved cold beer and taking in the magnificent vista overlooking the Mont Blanc massif.

“Cheers everyone, to the next adventure!…”

 

 

 

20 Sep 2014

Mont Blanc – The Roof Top to Europe

by | posted in: 2016 | 0

North Wales rock and snow

The idea to climb Mont Blanc came about after Dave and I met up one evening in Ye Old Murrenger House in my home town of Newport. Having lost touch and not climbed together in over fifteen years it was a quick decision. After reminiscing over a few beers, we came up with a plan, which was agreed to take place in seven months. Prior to this, Dave would head north to Snowdonia most weekends, in which we would scramble and climb together on some of the famous classic rock routes in North Wales, to gain the necessary alpine skills. We planned the route and necessary acclimatisation stages to give us the best chance of summiting and booked the mountain refuges before we left for Chamonix, our base for the trip.

Italy and back again…

We arrived at our chalet in Cham in the early hours of the morning due to a delay at the airport. Not the best start to the trip. After a few hours sleep, we are up, out and on our way into the town centre, heading to the Italian side of the Alps to acclimatise overnight. We take the early morning cable car from Chamonix town centre up to the Aiguille du Midi top station at 3842 metres, the thermometer at the top station registers minus nineteen degrees Celsius; it’s bitterly cold with the additional wind chill as we exit the cable car. Twenty minutes later we walk out through the ice tunnel, roped together, passing the photographers into a glorious sunshine filled blue sky and exit through the gate onto the magnificent snow arête, which makes up the Midi East ridge.

Ice axe gripped and crampons fitted we head slowly down the exposed ridge – the Crib Goch traverse we did back in North Wales in full winter conditions is no match for this. From here it’s approximately five hours of walking across the glacial valley (Valle Blanche) towards Italy avoiding the crevasses and passing under seracs. This is easier said than done, as we both have our moments stumbling waist deep into small crevasses.

When we eventually arrive at the Refuge Torino, sunburned and dehydrated we are told there is no reservation! but can stay at the old refuge, this means descending a further 228 steps. The accommodation at the hut is fine, but we have a disturbed night’s sleep due to thunderstorms and the effects of altitude at 3375 metres (1.2kms directly above the MB tunnel). The following morning we ascend the 228 steps for the fourth and final time and head north back towards France and our start point from yesterday, the views are spectacular, but the snow is deeper following last night’s storm and the going is tough. We get back to the snow arête just gone midday and the sun is feeling warm on our backs and the snow is starting to melt, not the best conditions for our ascent. As we start the climb back up we can hear a woman screaming on the descent, obviously not enjoying here first experience on the snow arête; we stand to one side as she passes with her guide holding her tightly on the rope. We head back up & take the cable back down to Cham where we spend the night at a low level of 1000 metres.

On Route to the Refuge de Tete Rousse

The following morning we head out early again, grabbing some freshly baked croissants from our chalet and take the free bus service to Les Houches, and then cable car to Bellevue Station. From here we take the Tramway du Mont Blanc up to the Nid d’Aigle (the eagle’s nest) at 2372 metres, we then head south on foot and pick up a rough rocky path, up the ridge of the Aiguille du Gouter. We pass mountaineers coming back down who have not summited due to bad weather conditions. As the rocky ridge line separating the Griaz and Tete Rousse Glaciers gains height the scenery just gets better and better. After a few hours of scrambling the refuge comes into sight, including several tents that are pitched nearby – we briefly stop to put crampons on to cross the glacier, we are now above the snowline and head in for the night at 3167 metres. Up above in the distance we can just make out the silhouette of the Gouter hut perched high on the cliffs.

Next stop Gouter Hut

The following morning we take a leisurely breakfast whilst we watch the snow storm conditions outside. We weren’t going anywhere until it eases… Four hours later after a conversation with the hut guardian and a phone call to the Gouter hut to ensure there are still beds available for us, we’re off again and heading through the snow, which continues to fall. We scramble up the ridge towards the Grand Couloir and arrive to find a Swiss guide with two clients negotiating their way across. A quick assessment of the amount of snow above suggests that the rock-fall should be minimal so we clip into the metal wire and head across quickly – we don’t stop to Pass Go or collect £200, just unclip, take in coils and continue scrambling up the south side of the ridge to the Aiguille du Gouter. As we gain height the snow underfoot turns to ice, so as a safety precaution we clip into the pre-installed cables, which leads us to the old Gouter hut. The view from here is fantastic, or so we have been told… As we are not blessed with an opportunity for photos today, so push on up a short snow slope to a flattening and then a few minutes later the impressive design of the Gouter hut comes into view at 3815 metres. It looks like it’s bolted to the side of the cliff and should be in a Bond film, the first question that springs to mind: How the f..k did they build that up here ?!


The Waiting Game

When we finally remove our outdoor gear and enter the hut we’re given a warm welcome by the handful of mountaineers already there, we get ourselves squared away in our dorm and head back for an evening meal of soup & pasta. At this point the hut guardian hits us with the bad news that the summit is out of the question tomorrow due to further snow and thunderstorms. So, we just have to wait and pass time by playing cards and working our way through the library of mountaineering literature left behind by previous climbers. The snow storms still do not ease and we are now concerned that we may not have enough time to go on any further and may have to go back down. Eventually twenty four hours later the guardian announces “breakfast will be served at 2 am”. A joyful cheer erupts, the waiting game is over, the summit is game on! The atmosphere in the hut immediately changes to one of excitement, and then urgency, as people begin organising and packing their kit ready for the off.

Monte Bianco (4807m)

It’s nearly half one in the morning when the first person in our dorm starts getting dressed by torch light, clearly trying to be quiet but not succeeding – I’ve not slept a wink due to altitude – within minutes the whole dorm is up and rushing to get ready. We grab something quick for breakfast and kit up in the outer building. It’s a clear night sky, with good visibility and temperatures are below minus twenty as we move out into the darkness up towards the Dome du Gouter.

We soon warm up on the steep slopes as we commence a slow but steady pace, the snow is deep from the recent snow storms making it leg sapping work. As we gain height the wind chill kicks in dropping the temperature further, it’s bitterly cold and my hands are freezing as I only have liners on but we decide not to stop until we reach the emergency Vallot hut. We enter the hut after climbing up a steep snow slope about two and a half hours later, the temperature is minus thirty something, my hands are so cold I struggle to add extra layers and over gloves. Dave helps and then attempts to drink from his water bottle but its frozen solid, my hot drink satisfies our requirements instead. A quick protein bar down the hatch and it’s time to get back outside and head up the exposed snow ridge for the summit. It’s still a tough long slog, in which we are battered constantly by the near gale force winds on the infamous Boissons ridge. At one point we stop and contemplate turning back, thankfully, the dawn sun makes its appearance and immediately the sun has a warming effect making it bearable again. We continue to push on up the exposed ridge to eventually arrive at the summit approximately three and a half hours later. We’re behind our scheduled time so have to cut short our summit celebrations and settle for a hand shake. As we stand on the roof top to Europe and take in the view, reality kicks in, we’re only half way and we have to get back down to the valley before the last tram leaves, as we fly home first thing tomorrow.

It’s all downhill from here

The next few hours involve us moving downhill at a rapid rate of knots, its warmer now as the sun is high above. We pass the Vallot hut and continue towards the Gouter, passing other mountaineers heading up towards the summit, no time to stop we have a train to catch. As we approach the old hut I catch one of my crampons on my goretex trousers sending me flying, face first down a snow slope, I make good use of my ice axe to brake my fall and I lie there laughing hysterically. I struggle to my feet, my legs are feeling heavy now, we’ve been going for about ten hours, it’s a perfect opportunity to remove layers and eat before continuing our descent towards the grand couloir. The ridge is still icy so we clip to the steel ropes and continue downwards carefully heading towards the grand couloir, when we arrive its almost midday and the risk from rockfall is much higher than on the way up as the snow above is already melting. We decide to leg it across this time and do not bother clipping to the cable, this proves to be a good choice as we shave minutes off the return crossing. On the other side the descent it’s mostly rock and scree scrambling so we remove crampons and push on until we arrive at the Tete Rousse. We’ve made good time, from here it’s about another  two hours to the tramway, we should make it before the last tram departs…..