13 Feb 2020

The Next Step: An introduction to Winter Walking & Scrambling in the UK Mountains

by | posted in: 2020 | 1

This blog is pretty much self-titled, so read on if you’re looking to expand your playground and take your first steps out into the UK mountains during winter.

Firstly, you might be thinking what makes me such an expert? I’m not an expert that’s for sure and I’ll never claim to be one. However, I do have a fair bit of winter experience dating back some 25 years to February 1995 when I passed SAS winter selection in the Brecon Beacons. Since then I have gone on to walk and climb during winter in North Wales, the Lake District, Scotland, the Alps, Norway, The High Atlas Mountains of North Africa and Annapurna Sanctuary of Nepal. I’m an experienced mountaineer and qualified Winter Mountain Leader and Mountain Rescue team member.

Anyway, back to the agenda, first of all you will ideally have a few years’ experience of summer walking and scrambling in the hills and mountains in most weather conditions and have a basic understanding of how to look after yourself: eg how to get an accurate weather forecast, basic mountain navigation skills and an understanding of what nutrition, clothing & equipment is required for a typical day in the mountains. Next steps are to get out when the snow is down; I would recommend building confidence slowly and avoiding the likes of Snowdon, Scaffel Pike or Ben Nevis as it is normal to get icy conditions on footpaths leading to these summits making conditions quite difficult and the risk of a slip or fall much greater unless you are already confident with wearing crampons. There is more value in attempting some lower level summits (eg under 900 metres) such as those found in the Brecon Beacons and select parts of Snowdonia where you can avoid ice covered footpaths and practice moving over snow covered terrain and still have an enjoyable and rewarding day.

Heading along School House Ridge towards the summit of Beinn a’Bheithir – Ballachulish, Glencoe

Fitness & Nutrition

When you head into the mountains in winter conditions it’s a fact that you will burn more calories compared to summer conditions; this is based on two main factors:

  • Trudging through deep snow is physically demanding and takes much more effort to make the high knee lifts compared to the equivalent route during summer conditions.
  • Due to colder air temperatures and windchill alone requires an increase in calories to maintain core body temperature.

Taking this into consideration, you need to ensure you fuel your body accordingly and ensure you eat a good high calorie breakfast such as porridge, banana and toast or a cooked breakfast before setting off for the day. Throughout the day you should aim to consume high energy, high fat snacks to replace spent calories. Consider carrying a high energy gel sachet in case you run out of gas. It is also vital that you hydrate before during and after activity, especially if you plan on heading out the following day. Personally, I don’t recommend drinking caffeine before heading into the mountains as it acts as a diuretic causing your bladder to fill more frequently resulting in making you feel the urge to pee more often and hence dehydrate. As already mentioned above, you will burn more calories during winter mountain days, so it is important that you maintain a good base level of fitness and conditioning prior to getting out, this will prevent the onset of cramps or muscle soreness. Basic gym fitness, such as the use of a treadmill, rowing machine, spin bike or step climber a couple of times a week is a good substitute to mountain walking if you cannot access the mountains during the week due to location and work commitments.

Clothing

An important factor when heading into the mountains in winter is to try and limit sweating to an absolute minimum.

In winter, too many layers can result in excess sweat that gets trapped inside your clothing. This can result in significant cooling of core body temperature. Worst case this can lead to hypothermia if combined with over exertion and not dealt with early enough, especially when exposed to the wind on higher summits. It will also result in the need to replace fluids to keep hydrated which can result in the need to carry additional weight in terms of drinks. So even if you have a brand-new North Face puffer jacket that your keen to wear, keep it in your rucksack until it’s really required. You should start walking feeling slightly chilled, you will warm up as you get moving. As the saying goes “Be Bold, Start Cold”, I generally find a long-sleeved base layer and breathable outer mid layer enough for most dry winter conditions. If it’s snowing, raining and/or significant wind chill I will add a hard-shell outer layer such as Goretex or Paramo. Depending on your plans, consider wearing gaiters to prevent snow getting down the top of your boots, many smaller streams will be snow covered and you’ll only find this out when one of your boots pokes through the snow and the water flows over the top of your boot. You may want to consider carrying a spare pair of socks.

Typical clothing for Scottish winter summits

Getting the Right Skills

After bagging your first few easy low-level summits in winter it’s time to start up skilling to ascend the higher summits and ridgelines; this will ensure you get the best out of your winter adventures. I seriously recommend either hiring a Winter Mountain Leader (WML) or Winter Mountaineering & Climbing Instructor (WMCI) for a day or two to learn some basic crampon & ice axe skills to keep you safe. This followed by a five-day Introduction to Winter Mountaineering in Scotland will help consolidate newly acquired skills and get you ready to tackle your own winter days in the mountains.

You can find a suitably qualified Winter ML or Winter MCI Instructor via the link https://www.mountain-training.org/find-a-leader

You can find plenty of winter courses ranging from one to five days at Plas y Brenin Mountain Sports Centre, Capel Curig, North Wales https://www.pyb.co.uk/scottish-winter-courses/  or Glenmore Lodge, National Outdoor Training Centre, Aviemore, Scotland https://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/winter-mountain/

If you are serious about getting out in winter you will need to learn about avalanches and how they are triggered. Again there are several courses and workshops available to improve your understanding and gain further knowledge. As an active mountaineer I attend sessions at the beginning of each winter season in attempt to improve my knowledge with the latest research, and ensure I know how to access and interpret the data.

Typical Scottish Grade 1 Gulley in good winter condition eg consolidated snow layers and frozen turf below.

Additional Winter Kit

Again, If you are serious about winter walking you will need to invest in the following items of additional clothing & equipment as an absolute minimum and they will need to be carried with you:

  • Crampons (C2) to match a B2 or B3 rated boot, this may result in you having to upgrade your current walking boot, but this is recommended as you will need a stiffer boot to secure the crampon to and it will be warmer also. There are many crampon manufacturers out there, but I can recommend Grivel, Petzl or Singing Rock if on a budget.
  • Ice Axe – a general purpose straight shafted walking axe between 45-55 cms is a must, this depends on your physical height. Again, I would recommend DMM or Grivel as the best manufacturers for this.
  • Synthetic or Down Jacket – required for when you stop, this goes on over the top of all other jackets, so size accordingly. Synthetic is generally seen as the best for British winter conditions as it will keep you warm even when wet. There is a plethora of manufacturers out there selling this type of gear so be careful not to spend your hard-earned cash on something that just looks good on the high street or down the pub. I recommend Arcteryx, Mountain Equipment, Paramo or Montane if on a budget. The Montane Prism jacket is a great all-rounder and is an essential piece of kit for layering without significant bulk and weight.
  • Flask – hot drink
  • Spare gloves – at least 2 pairs
  • Snow Goggles – clear lenses recommended as they offer best light conditions.
  • Group shelter – min 2 persons
  • Blizzard jacket or blanket for an emergency.

Progressing Winter Skills – What Next?

Once you’ve had a good induction into winter in the mountains and built confidence in your ability to ascend and descend steep slopes in crampons and use your ice axe to self-arrest, it’s worth considering tackling steeper more exposed terrain such as Grade 1 rocky ridges and gullies. This is a decision that should not be taken lightly due to the associated risks. However, if you feel you have a good head for heights, confidence with your navigation, interpretation of contours, an awareness of avalanche terrain then this is a natural progression. I recommend doing this with a competent winter walker or alternatively hiring a WML or WMCI as detailed above. It is worth noting now, avalanche forecasting information is only available in Scotland during the winter season, that does not mean that they cannot be triggered in England & Wales and yes, they do occur.

  • Grade 1 Rocky Ridges – Typical ridges to consider, Snowdonia; Daear Ddu ridge on Moel Siabod, Seniors Ridge in Ogwen Valley and Tryfan North Ridge, Scotland; CMD arete leading to Ben Nevis or Fiacaill Ridge – Cairngorms. I recommend that you tackle these in summer conditions first prior to attempting in winter for familiarisation. There is plenty of literature out there regarding these routes so it’s worth researching first before committing to doing these routes. Note: ridges are generally considered to be the safer option in winter when there is a risk of avalanches being triggered.
  • Grade 1 Gullies – Snowdonia; Easy Route in Cwm Cnefion, Banana Gully on Y Garn, Hourglass Gulley in Cwm Lloer. Scotland; Broad Gully on Bidean Nam Bian – Stob Coire nan Lochan. * Important Note, Grade 1 gullies can range in difficulties depending on snow, ice and avalanche conditions, you also need to observe if any other people are on the route already as they may knock debris down the route towards you or even trigger an avalanche. Snow gullies need to have been through a freeze thaw cycle and have consolidated snow, ice and frozen turf before attempting to climb. All these factors should be considered before heading into any gully. Finally, you need to consider your safest route off the mountain after completion, this needs to be planned before leaving the car park in the morning!
  • Grade 2/3 Mixed routes and Gullies – These require further experience again and enter the remit of winter climbing, therefore are not covered in this post.
Looking back at North Wales’s finest Grade 1 Ridge scramble, Crib Goch in Snowdonia

Recommended Reading

These are a few books that I have made good use of and recommend to anyone interested in winter walking & scrambling in the UK mountains;

  • A Chance in a Million – Scottish Avalanches, Barton & Wright
  • Scotland’s Winter Mountains – Martin Moran
  • Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain – Bruce Temper
  • Mountaincraft and Leadership – Eric Langmuir
  • Winterskills – Mountain Leader Training Handbooks Vol 3, Andy Cunningham and Allen Fyffe
  • Scotland’s Winter Mountains with one axe – Garry Smith

Internet Resources

Winter mountaineering can be extremely rewarding, some of my most challenging and memorable days have been experienced in the winter environment. Winter conditions change daily, sometimes in the matter of hours and are affected by temperature, wind speed and direction. Just because today was perfect conditions has no indication that tomorrow will be the same!

“Climb if you will but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.” –  Edward Whymper

I do hope this blog has been of interest, please do get in touch if you have any questions or are interested in booking a winter skills course, all the best in adventures.

27 Dec 2019

Rock Skills – 1 Day Introduction

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Rock Skills – 1 Day Introduction Course

This course is aimed at anyone who is interested in making their first moves climbing outdoors or would like to experience what is on offer outside the climbing wall. You will have the chance to explore different aspects of the sport and a mix of rock types.

Example of typical program content:
• Get hands on bouldering and rock climbing
• Learn to tie in and belay
• Improve your climbing movement skills.
• Abseiling

 

Is It For Me?

The one day course is aimed at anyone looking to develop their skills enjoying the rich variety of rock climbing on offer here in North Wales. As such it is ideal for: complete novices, as a refresher if you haven’t climbed in a while, active indoor wall climbers that have little or no experience of climbing outside. You don’t have to have any previous experience of rock climbing although being fit and active would be advantageous.

 

Aims
To develop a basic foundation in core rock climbing techniques, whilst climbing a variety of boulder problems & single pitch rock climbs.

Course Content
On the first morning we will discuss individual’s current experience and aspirations, this will ensure the main topic areas can be covered and individual needs can be tailored for. Topic areas include:

• FUNdamental movement skills on a variety of rock types.
• Experience different disciplines of rock climbing.
• Interpreting a bouldering/climbing guidebook and choice of routes.
• Belaying
• Descending from rock climbs by abseil

How to Register on the Rock Skills Scheme

Click on below link to Rock Skills Participant Handbook for full information about the scheme, the course fee includes the cost of registration.

What Happens Next?
At the end of the course I can provide further advice and guidance on your journey to becoming a self-sufficient climber.

*The course will be delivered by myself, I am a full member of the Mountain Training Association (MTA)  British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and authorised training provider for Mountain Training Cymru. I hold the Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI), Climbing Wall Development Instructor (CWDI), Foundation Coach Award and Rope Rescue Technician. Maximum group size is 4: This ensures the maximum learning potential for individuals is achieved through hands on practical sessions.

*Please contact myself via email with any course enquiries mwall16@tiscali.co.uk or click on link below for booking page

*Max Adventures is an accredited provider of the Rock Skills Scheme

 

 

 

10 Apr 2019

Learn To Lead Climb – Indoors

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Learn to Lead Climb – Indoors 

3 X 2.5 hour evening sessions (Dates to be agreed with climbers)
This course is aimed at people with some prior experience of top rope climbing indoors and want to progress to lead climbing.

Pre Requisites

Ideally A minimum of 12 months climbing experience and able to climb on top rope comfortably at Grade 5/6A

Syllabus
• Understand the inherent risks involved with lead climbing.
• Practice lead belaying with a range of different devices, including assisted braking devices.
• Understand the principles of making an appropriate route choice.
• Mental preparation before setting off.
• Efficient lead climbing, identifying key holds, rests and challenging sections.
• Use of leader placed and in situ quick draws.
• Effective communication between leader and belayer.
• Falling, holding a fall and lowering to the ground.
• Understand the different ropes and equipment suitable for lead climbing including their wear and handling characteristics.

Cost:
£90 total + wall entrance fee

What next?
I can provide further advice and guidance on your journey to becoming a self-sufficient climber.

Learn to Lead Sport (outdoors) is the next step in the Rock Skills pathway.

 

*The course will be delivered by myself, I am a full member of the Mountain Training Association (MTA) and British Mountaineering Council (BMC). I hold the Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI) Climbing Wall Development Instructor (CWDI) and Foundation Coach awards. I am also an authorised provider of the Rock Skills Scheme for Mountain Training UK. Maximum group size is 2: This ensures the maximum learning potential for individuals is achieved through hands on practical sessions.

 

 

 

 

 

22 Oct 2018

Destination Norway – A Beginners Guide to Winter Ice Climbing in Rjukan

by | posted in: 2018 | 0

If you’ve ever considered your first “Do It Yourself” ice climbing trip to the ice climbing Mecca of Rjukan in Norway, carry on reading: – This blog aims to give some useful background information and get you heading in the right direction to plan your own adventure.

Firstly, if you want to get the best out of your trip you should aim to get out on ice somewhere in the UK beforehand, although this can prove to be difficult. Also, consider hiring a Mountaineering Instructor Certificate (MIC) http://www.mountain-training.org/mountaineering/other/find-a-leader to get you seconding some routes and practicing placing ice screws; Scotland is definitely your best bet for this!

So, let’s tackle the first important question: “When is the best time to go?’ December to April is definitely the optimum period and coincides with UK wintertime, generally has the best conditions with temperatures ranging from -5 to -21 during winter 2017. In an ideal world, you will be able to bag some winter climbs in the UK before heading out to Norway, ready to climb some steep ice.

Winter preparation in Scotland Feb 2018 –  “Blue Ribband WI5” courtesy of the The Beast from the East

Preparation & Fitness

In general a basic level of fitness (eg someone who engages in activities such as walking, jogging, indoor climbing or gym sessions a couple of times a week) is sufficient enough to enjoy the demands of several days ice climbing. Indoor ice climbing is great preparation and will help to build strength and general fitness, and will improve your technique too. You can hire ice climbing equipment from indoor venues in the UK, and this is the perfect opportunity to put it to the test before you go out and spend a lot of hard earned money on expensive kit such as: crampons (mono or dual point?) try them both, which do you prefer? My personal preference is mono points for steep ice and dual for mixed climbing) suitably curved shafted axes for steep ice (leashes or leash less?) Again a personal choice that comes with climbing routes. My recommendation for axes for steep ice is Singing Rock’s bandits. Ice climbing indoors will help to improve your technique whilst being on the safety of a top rope and is good practice for handling rope with gloves on for belaying if you’ve never tried this before. It can also help to ensure you have the most suitable clothing: thinner dexterous gloves for climbing, thicker gloves and jacket for belaying. Indoors you will use the rope installed at the venue, obviously you will need to take your own for your trip. I recommend a dry treated sixty metre single rope for most crags in Rjukan even up to leading Water Ice (WI3) routes and don’t forget the ice screws, make sure you have at least eight between you and your climbing partner, of various lengths. In terms of boots, you’ll need a B3 boot with a stiff sole and insulation to keep your feet warm all day, I recommend AKU’s Serai GTX a great boot that is a combination of lightweight and a technical mountaineering boot that does exactly what it says on the box..

Getting There

As a major ice-climbing destination during the winter months, and notably one of the world’s greatest ice climbing venues with its roadside ice, Norway is a great destination and is only a ninety-minute flight from the UK. It can be done on a budget with some careful, upfront planning; I recommend a group size of four, so you can share a car. Book your flights several months in advance! For our last trip we used a budget Irish airway and paid less than eighty pounds return. By checking in only two holdalls, for four people, we kept the cost of the flight down, and also avoided the extra baggage fees. If you don’t mind sharing, there is no need for every person in the group to take their own ice axes. As generally, only one climber climbs at any given time on single pitch venues: it’s surprising how much extra weight and space you can save! During a recent visit, we used a self-catering log cabin in the village of Antra, Telemark, which is an approximate three hour drive from Oslo, Torp airport, and about twenty minutes’ drive to the nearest crag; Krokan in our case. To get there, we hired an estate car from the airport, booked in advance for sixty pounds per day between the four of us. Note, all vehicles come with winter tyres to help you navigate the snow covered roads.

Typical log cabin style accommodation in Antra

What to Expect

Temperatures are consistently low, depending on the time of year, you can expect anything between minus five and minus fifteen and there is normally minimal wind chill like you get in the UK, certainly when you’re in the canyons climbing. If you’ve planned your accommodation well, you should be rewarded with just a short drive and very short walk in. Most of the crags in Rjukan have both single pitch and multi pitch routes of all grades so this should cater for any difference in skills within your group. You need to be familiar with setting up top rope anchors for rigging single pitch climbs. If you’re not familiar with this it is worth looking up a Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI) or Mountaineering Instructor Award (MIA) holder to go through some basic rigging before your trip. It is certainly worth bringing some spare tat, extra slings and mallions to facilitate this, the majority of routes we rigged made use of sturdy trees above the crags with the odd ice screw or ice thread for redirects where required. If you plan your dates accordingly you could tie them in with the annual ice climbing festival that takes place in Rjukan itself, normally the last weekend in February, see link for more info – https://www.visitrjukan.com/en/what-s-on/rjukan-icefestival

Rigging top ropes from the top of the crag – Bullen area

Something else to consider

There are very few pubs in Rjukan itself, and it is quite rare to find alcohol in the supermarkets. So, if this is a requirement, then it is advisable to purchase alcohol before you leave the airport. Also supermarket prices are a little higher than the UK; but with some creative thinking you can rustle up some good quality evening meals for your group to keep you going all day and snacks for the crag .

Where to Go

The actual ice climbing venues are well documented with good route descriptions and how to find them in the Heavy Water Rockfax guide to Rjukan, it provides information on over one hundred and seventy routes including mixed climbing routes. Most of the areas below are all within twenty kilometres of Rjukan town itself which is located one hundred and seventy five kilometres west of Oslo and is on the main road number Thirty Seven in a deep narrow valley. In general the town does not really see sunlight for up to four months of the year.

 

Krokan – This is a great venue, with an abundance of routes ranging from ten metres to forty metres in height. The later in the season you go the more sunlight you get here also, which means you can actually climb on ice with the sun on your back! Routes here range from WI3 to WI5 and some mixed route M4 to M10 if that’s your preference. It’s approximately seven hundred metres higher than the town itself and gets the sunlight from early morning.

We were lucky enough to get sunshine all day on our visit in March, it was still cold at minus thirteen Celsius. There is a skidoo track that leads over a bridge and provides access to the top of the routes. You can rig top ropes from here and abseil down into the gorge to inspect the ice or return to the base of the climb via the skidoo track. During our visit the ice was well formed and plentiful, hard but not too brittle. We started on the main and most popular route Bullen and another adjacent line which are both graded at WI3 before moving to the right hand end of the crag to climb Jomfrua WI4 (left hand & right hand variants)and the steep Fyrstikka WI5 which proved to be very popular with the group.

Fyrstikka WI5 – Krokan area

Ozzimosis – This is a great area for beginners with grades ranging from WI2 – WI4 and suitable for climbers looking to get their first lead ice climb. This crag is out of direct sunlight and as a result stays in good condition. We headed here on our second day as some of the team were looking for their first winter leads and it made for a nice progression from the previous day. We successfully got leads on a few routes to include Arsdagen WI2, Julevask WI2 and Juledusj WI3, we also climbed Svada variant WI4 on top rope as a warm up.

Typical roadside icefall and great venue for beginners in Ozzimossis

Gausta – This is higher up the valley at about one thousand metres and has a twenty minute walk in from the road to the base of the climbs, all routes here are WI3 and are a good alternative venue to the busy hotspots.

We headed here on our third day as it was a mere ten minute drive from our log cabin. Unfortunately for us there had been a lot of snowfall overnight making the approach hard work as the snow was very deep and us having to make fresh tracks. Unfortunately for us the routes were also covered in deep snow making climbing there impracticable.

Disappointingly too much snow on the routes! – Gausta

Schoolroom Area – It’s not in the Rockfax guidebook but it’s a perfect venue for training, topos are available online and once again the grades here are very amenable.

There are numerous other venues to contemplate for a return trip once you have got your technique right and look to progress to multi pitch climbing: The Upper Gorge, Vemork Bridge, Rjukan Centre, Gausta area, Svadde, Bolgen and Kong Vinter to name just a few.

What Else is on offer?

If you decide that you need a break from ice climbing, Rjukan town itself is worth a visit. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site located close to the Hardangervidda National Park and lies in a deep valley and during the six months of winter, the surrounding mountains cast a shadow over the town even at midday. In 2013 however, an innovative project changed this, the project involved the placement of huge mirrors above the town to reflect sunlight during the sun-starved winter months. Rjukan – or at least, a small but vital part of Rjukan – is no longer stuck in the shadow. During World War II, Vemork in Rjukan was one of the few places in Europe that made heavy water, an important ingredient in the first nuclear bombs. The facility was sabotaged by Norwegian resistance fighters (The Heroes of Telemark) which prevented Germany from developing the atom bomb. This operation made Vemork the centre of one of the most important and daring sabotage missions during the war. At the Norwegian Industrial Workers’ Museum at Vemork, you can learn more about Rjukan’s exciting wartime history. Failing that you could just go to the indoor swimming pool and relax with a steam bath & sauna. For those feeling energetic, maybe a visit to what is claimed to be the most beautiful mountain in Norway, Gaustatoppen, which towers majestically above the town of Rjukan at an altitude of 1,883 metres. Around thirty thousand people make the trip up to the summit every year to enjoy the fantastic views from the top. On a clear day, you can see all the way south to the coast and east to Sweden. No matter what the weather is like, you can still buy a cup of coffee, waffles and food at the Tourist Association’s one hundred year old stone cabin on the summit. You can even pick your own stone from the piles around the summit and get it stamped to prove that you climbed the mountain. For those keen on skiing, Gustablikk Ski Centre is fifteen minutes from Rjukan and has twelve ski lifts and thirty slopes to keep you occupied with the longest run at three thousand five hundred metres.

If all else fails you could just go out, find some roadside ice and practice constructing Abalakov threads and test how strong they really are. I can pretty much guarantee it’s not something you will ever get to do on the side of the road back in the UK and you will get a few strange looks by drivers as they drive by…

22 Jul 2018

A Pembroke Sea Cliff Climbing Initiation – Severe to VS

by | posted in: 2018 | 0

Pembs here we come..

It is the 2nd week in October and typically for North Wales it has been raining on a fairly consistent basis for a few weeks. Having climbed in the Alps earlier this summer and then returning back to the damp mountains of North Wales I had lost my mojo for trad climbing. However, the thought of a three-day trip to Pembroke to climb on some of the best limestone sea cliffs in the world, with over 3000 routes from novice to elite climber is enough to wet my appetite. There is a planned climbing club meet coming up on the weekend in Pembrokeshire. All I need now is a climbing partner! A couple of exchanges via WhatsApp and Ben, a fellow club member and friend is up for it, 3 pounds a night camping, there’s a pub! It’s in walking distance!” appears to seal the deal… Forty-eight hours later and we’re heading to Pembroke with two other climbers from the club Dave & Stu. These guys are veterans of Pembrokeshire Sea Cliff climbing, they have visited the area for over twenty years and know the place inside out. Our aim is to get on some classic climbs and understand the logistics of the place eg the abseil entry points and get as many routes in as possible in the Severe to VS grades, but first we have to pitch our tents in the dark.

                                                                                      The rugged limestone coastline

Bombs away…

The following morning, we are wakened by the definitive thud of artillery rounds nearby. “Incoming” someone shouts from inside a nearby tent we are close to the MOD firing ranges at Castlemartin, it’s Friday and the ranges are still active. We soon decide on a new venue for the day’s climbing, after a quick pot of quick porridge we head quickly to Mother Careys area, from here we are pointed in the direction of the White Tower (sounds like something out of Lord of the Rings) further east, the face of the tower gleams bright as the sunlight reflects off the sea, it looks stunning. We follow the grass banked walk to a col, and then scramble down to a sea level platform that we traverse around to the base of our climb, Sea Groove. It’s given a VS 4C in our guidebook and best done in two pitches. Ben takes the 1st pitch to a niche and I lead us up the steep corner to the top out. And that’s it, we are immediately both hooked on Pembroke limestone, What a fantastic route! The quality of the rock is superb. We head back to meet up with the other guys, we are grinning from ear to ear like a pair of Cheshire cats, In the mean time they have been climbing something a bit more challenging on Brazen Buttress and not for the faint hearted.

Looking down the 2nd pitch of Sea Groove on the White Tower

We chill out for five, and decide on our next route, Dave & Stu have already rigged an abseil up into Mother (S)Carey’s Kitchen so it would be rude not to get on it and have a look at what’s on offer at this famous venue. As we head down, the sea level is rising and the tide is starting to return, a few breakers are spilling over the platform. We arrive at the lower level and are greeted by Jim and Paul also from the club, they have just arrived and about to set off up “Sunsmoke”. Our plan is to tackle a route called “The Cracks” it’s given a severe in our Rockfax guide, we decide to do it in two pitches as there’s an obvious belay cave halfway up. I set off, the climbing is steep but steady for a few moves until I hit the crux. I attempt it the most obvious way but my head doesn’t like it. I climb back down a step to have another look, five mins later after rehearsing the moves several times I have another go, this time I place a cam in the large crack above before setting off. The next couple of moves are quite delicate and require good balance to get to the next good hold, I quickly wrap a sling around a spike for protection, relax and climb on upwards to the cave. As I sit belaying Ben up I think to myself, this route’s not a severe! Ben arrives and agrees with my synopsis, before heading off up the second bold pitch to the top out. We later find out its given a VS 4C in the climbers’ club guide and in my opinion more accurate.

Tackling the Crux on “The Cracks”’

A rude awakening..

Tomorrow’s plan is to visit another local venue, its due to rain overnight so we’ll finalise in the morning, once the weather makes its mind up. Initial thoughts are to head to the cliffs at Saddle Step. After a few beers and evening meal at St Govans Inn we return to our luxury 3-star tents and sleeping bags for the night. I’ve been asleep for what seems like hours when I’m suddenly awakened by a distinctive russelling sound of plastic bags from inside the tent. I reach for my torch and eventually find it and the on button in the darkness to find an intruder in the tent. A hedgehog has infiltrated the inner tent and decided to help himself to the confines of my food bag, he seems to have had a good go at the almonds and apricots and made a start on the dry porridge oats. Shocked, but pleasantly surprised I get out of my sleeping bag and remove the little guy and place him outside Phil & Sean’s tent a few metres away and return to my ransacked tent. It’s several hours later before his return for seconds!! The following morning we are greeted with the forecasted rain so we take a slow start and breakfast at Ye Old Worlde Café in Bosherton, the place has not changed in fifty years I’m informed. It’s mid morning once the rain stops, we head to range west and split into three groups, we head to Saddle Step and the MOD building in search of our recommended three-star VS route Blue Sky. On arrival at the venue its quite obvious from the high spring tide that the full route of Blue Sky is not accessible as the waves are crashing high up on to it. We decide to settle for the route next to it, a Hard Severe and appropriately named Sea Mist. We set up anchors above and abseil down, it appears to be a one pitch route so I take the lead for this one, it has a delicate, bold traverse out to an arete and then the climb leads up the left-hand edge of the slab, the climbing is great and there are plenty of places to place protection on route.

Abseiling down to the ledge of Sea Mist

Save the best for Last

For our final day in Pembroke, we aim for an area known as Mowing Word. A brilliant sea cliff venue with some great routes at all grades. Diedre Sud (HS) is rightly a classic* and first on our list. We park at Stackpole Quay and walk south along the scenic coastal path, the sun is shining and it’s a blue sky day which makes for an enjoyable walk in. It takes about thirty minutes to reach the top of the cliffs and the random abseil stakes at the top where we will start. We rack up and agree who’s leading what pitch and set up our abseil down the long corner in the centre of the limestone face of our route. I’m pretty certain it’s the right route as Ben lowers himself towards the sea. A few minutes later and we’re both hanging from our belay sixty metres from the top, watching the waves crashing in below our feet. Without further ado I lead off up the steep corner, the rock is slightly damp but dries out as I gain height and the quality of the limestone is just fantastic, everything flows and I soon arrive at the half height ledge where I stop to bring up Ben to join me, he gets to climb the whole route without stopping and makes a great lead of the 2nd pitch. At the top we agree it’s a fab route and great addition to the logbook.

Ben heading up the 2nd Pitch of Deidre Sud

After chilling out for a while, an increase to our calorie intake and thumb through the guidebook, we decide on another route, why not ? its early afternoon, plenty of time. We both like the sound of the adventurous three pitch Razorbill (VS 4C), a combination of traversing and steep climbing in exposed positions throughout. We use the same abseil line and reconvene at the hanging belay. Once again I head off first, this time traversing out right before moving up to a ledge beneath the big corner at the lower left-hand side of a sea cave. The hand holds appear fairly positive and there’s some good threads for placing protection. However its mostly barnacles for feet ! The incoming roar of the tide and waves snapping at our heels certainly adds to the ambiance and I struggle to hear Ben shouting profanities on his way over trying to remove the gear.

The adventurous 1st Pitch Traverse of Razorbill (it goes from left to right)

Next up is a steep slab climb to an overhang and once again Ben steps up and makes it look easy with his precision footwork before hitting the crux below an overhang. He’s out of sight now and It takes a few minutes to work out but seems an eternity as the tide is getting closer by the second. ‘Hurry up Ben I say to myself inside my head’. I look across to the other side of the bay and I can see a small crowd of onlookers forming on the top of the cliffs watching the entertainment in anticipation and then I hear the word “Safe” echo out from above. It’s Ben he’s reached the belay, the ropes pull tight and its my turn to climb and not a second to soon as the water is pooling at my feet with the rapidly rising tide. It’s an exposed pitch and certainly adventurous as it winds up the cliff face to a ledge where we are once again acquainted. An exchange of pleasantries, a wave for the cameras and I’m off up the steep wall of the final pitch. Once again it’s exposed but protected, I take the right hand crack of the two and pull over the cliff top to safety to be greeted by Stew and Dave who are waiting tentatively with the keys to the van and our taxi home.. a four hour journey north.

The final pitch

In summary I was completely blown away by the amazing quality and variety of the rock climbing on offer in Pembroke.

Somehow I think we’ll be back in the not too distant future !!

* There’s a valid reason why the route appears in the “Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain”, the “50 Best HS Routes in the UK”, “100 Best Limestone Climbs in Britain”, the “BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist” and last but not least “Libby Peter’s Hard Severe Hit List..

5 Nov 2017

Mountain Skills Course

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Do you want to have your own adventure’s in the mountains?

If so, the ‘Mountain Skills’ course will get you heading in the right direction and provide you with the knowledge, safety skills and confidence to do just that.

If you already have hill walking experience but want to progress to steep mountain terrain, then the Mountain Skills course is definitely the way forward.

*For further information on the mountain skills course, please click on the image:

 

Objectives:

The 2-Day Course is nationally accredited and endorsed by Mountain Rescue England and Wales and will provide you with the skills and confidence to:

Successfully plan a walk in the mountains in the UK or Ireland

Understand pace, nutrition and movement skills over various rocky terrain & steep ground

Make an informed choice of correct clothing and equipment – being suitably dressed and equipped can make the difference between a great day out and a complete disaster

Interpret the weather – how it may affect the mountains and your day

Navigate in the mountains – everything from selecting a compass and using a map to navigation in poor visibility and an intro to GPS

Environmental knowledge – how to minimise your impact on the hill, information on good practice and useful organisations

Hazards and emergency procedures in the mountains – how to respond to any hazards you encounter and what to do in a real emergency

Registration for the scheme

Booking on to either the Hill Skills or Mountain Skills course will automatically register with Mountain Training.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Course details:

The 2-day course is run with a maximum of four people (larger groups can be accommodated) and will take place in the Snowdonia National Park.

Please contact myself via email with any course enquiries: mwall16@tiscali.co.uk

or clink on link below for booking form

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Max Adventures is an accredited provider of the Hill & Mountain Skills Scheme

 

16 Aug 2017

Summer Alpine Rock & Snow

by | posted in: 2017 | 1

It is our third summer adventure in the Mont Blanc massif for Dave C and myself. We now have a good understanding of the cable car & ski lifts in the area and how they significantly improve access into the high mountains. This year we are joined by two friends and competent climbers Dave H and Ben. The plan is to get a few steady multi pitch rock routes in first on the Aiguille Rouges at circa 2000 metres before heading up to the high mountains above 3000 metres. Our strategy is to build confidence on rock and aid our acclimatisation. We already have several routes planned for the week, but are prepared to change these depending on current weather conditions, overcrowding and the stability of the snow.

 

It’s not supposed to rain here

Our first morning is greeted with the arrival of rain, not the start we had anticipated. The four of us sit in a bakery in Chamonix centre drinking coffee whilst watching the thunder and lightning show outside. We discuss alternative plans ranging from via ferrata, a jolt through the MB tunnel into nearby Italy, or even heading north for forty minutes into Switzerland for some sport climbing. As luck would have it, the rain suddenly stops and the sun comes out from behind the clouds. Decision made, its back to plan A, to take the Flegere lift up to the Index for some Gneiss multi pitch climbing.

 

Looking back down the tricky slab 1st pitch of Nez Rouge

 

We split into two teams, Team 1 – to climb Nez Rouge (D 5A) a six pitch, 180-metre climb. Team 2 – to climb the fantastic South East Ridge (AD 4C) of the Index, a six pitch, 130-metre route with a series of exposed abseils. Dave C and I will tackle Nez Rouge on the Aiguille de la Gliere having previously enjoyed the South East Ridge a few years back. Ideally we will get to the top of our route first and snap a photo of Team 2 standing on the summit at 2595 metres. As we’re the only climbers on the mountain today, we ascend with no delays and get our photo of Team 2 at the summit.

Team 2 on the summit of The Index

 

Big Boots on Le Brevent

Our second day starts with the usual deciphering of the weather forecast, Chamonix Meteo appears to be the most accurate for the area. The plan today is to tackle a route in a different region wearing mountaineering boots. Mic est maousse AD+ 5a, a 5 pitch, 105 metre climb on Le Brevent. We set off early, keen to start before the crowds arrive and get back down before the late afternoon/early evening thunderstorms arrive.

We take the Telepherique du Brevent to the top station just below the summit at 2525 metres and follow an adventurous, scenic, descent route for approximately forty-five minutes to get to the start of the climb. We make good use of the in situ iron ladders to down climb where necessary. Unlike North Wales’s snakes and ladders all the rungs are in place and they’re firmly bolted to the rock. As we approach the base of the climb we can see a few groups above making progress up the initial arête.

 

Alpine scrambling up the arete

 

Looking at the terrain we agree to move together initially and only pitch the steeper more exposed ground as required. Its pitch three before a belay plate makes a brief entrance for an exposed ramp and steep corner, which Dave C makes light work of in his Scarpa phantom lights. It’s a final scramble along the ridge before descending down to the foot of the crux 5A pitch. We stop here for lunch, and enjoy the view across the valley overlooking the snow covered Mont Blanc massif; the sun is cracking the flags.

The Mont Blanc massif

 

It’s my lead on the next pitch. A tricky layback start leads to a groove that is well protected – the climbing steepens above to a hand jamming crack and exposed flakes to finish. A 20-metre abseil off the top leads us to a final ridge – once again we move together to complete the route and then head back up the track to the summit of Le Brevent. “Ice cream all round I believe”! As we return back down to the valley floor via the ski lift we see the dark clouds gathering way in the distance, we’re happy with the time it’s taken us today.

 

A tricky layback start

 

Bed & Breakfast at 2702 metres

With a few rock routes at altitude now under our belts it’s time to head for the high mountains. Our plan today is to take the bus to the end of the valley to Le Tour and head up to the Albert Premier refuge where we’ll stay for the night. We have done our homework and spoken to the Chamonix Compagnie des Guides, so have a plan in place. The route we have in mind has seen some recent ascents, so we are fairly confident of summiting if conditions are still good. If not, we have a plan B and C just in case… The walk up to the hut takes in some stunning scenery, which flanks the glacier de Tour, presenting us with cascading white water falls, huge crevasses and a clear view of the Aiguilles Rouges on the opposite side of the valley. We can’t help but stop and take photos at regular intervals.

 

A scenic walk up to the hut

 

Day trip to Switzerland anyone…
The following morning we start with a 4am breakfast before heading off up the scramble behind the hut heading for the glacier. We rope up as a four on a flat boulder field; ahead, the glacier is scoured, with little snow evident. We push on into the darkness heading south eastwards – our next feature a significant band of rock running east to west, which we need to cross at its furthest eastern point. Day light starts to break and reveals a moody sky with dark, ominous looking clouds heading our way.

 

Crossing the glacier at first light

 

Our plan is to take on the Arête de la Table AD 5A, which is a six pitch 450 metre climb, and then on to the south summit of the Aiguille de Tour. As we pass beneath the granite cliffs we hear nearby rock fall from above; looking up we see large boulders bouncing down the mountainside. We continue, heading towards our entry point for the climb, the couloir. When we arrive, we note the snow is thin and the risk of further rock fall is too high to continue. So we revert to plan B, the south summit, which is a much safer alternative in these conditions. We move on together, the groups’ disappointment is evident, but we continue on crossing the glacier, past a huge tower of rock and up through the Col du Superior at 3289 metres. It’s a steep pull up through the col, the wind is howling through the gap and there is a fair bit of lose rock getting kicked off by other parties. We cross the col, entering Switzerland and reach the Trient glacier; we are greeted by bright sunshine and an eerie stillness. We head north, passing the Aiguille Purtscheller on our left. Access on to the Aiguille du Tour is restricted somewhat by a Bergshrund, we have to cross it at its narrowest point on the right hand side and then make a tricky traverse back above it leftwards to gain access onto the rock. We then scramble our way to the ridge, finally summiting at 3529 metres, and are rewarded by a spectacular view across the French and Swiss Alps. A few photos for the album and then it’s off again, heading back to the Charamillon col de Balme ski lift; lasts one is 5pm, loads of time…

 

Heading down from the South Summit

 

Rest day or Not

Today is a planned rest day so we make sure all alarm clocks are off following the previous early start and enjoy a lie in. We decide to have a leisurely stroll and explore Chamonix town centre and it’s plethora of restaurants, cafes and outdoor shops. However, by mid-afternoon we’re done and some easy sport climbing is suggested. Les Gaillands, Forestiers area provides the evening’s entertainment with over 20 routes, single and multi-pitch ranging from 4b to 6b+. Well worth a visit if you’re ever staying in the local area and fancy a quick roadside climbing fix.

 

Sport Climbing in the valley

 

Oops, here comes another adventure

The weather for our final day once again looks great, we agree on something not too challenging, but enough to keep us entertained. La Somone D-5b on Le Brevent appears to be a good choice with eight pitches and 205 metres of enjoyable climbing. Once again we head off to the top station of Le Brevent ski lift. We then descend on foot into the clouds, passing two climbing crags and walk beneath the main cliff. We follow the track downhill until we arrive at the toe of a buttress and see a French guide and his client racking up. We assume this is our agreed route and exchange pleasantry with them before they set off and disappear out of sight.

 

Disappearing into the clouds

 

Once again we rack up as two teams, Dave C leads off on the first pitch, which is steep but steady and seems a little harder than our guidebook suggests. I arrive at the belay and prepare to lead through. The guidebook says it’s a ten metre easy down climb, in reality it’s a 5A slab going up. “I think this part of the route has changed!” says Dave, as I start off. He’s right, this section doesn’t register with me either; but I carry on upwards anyway. Once at the belay point, I get the chance to speak to the French Guide’s client as he is just setting off. I ask quickly in my best French accent, “What route are you doing?” “Crackoukass”, he shouts down. “Yes, lovely climbing isn’t it”, I reply automatically. I’m actually thinking – Shiiit, we’re on the wrong bloody route and it’s the one we didn’t fancy doing, as it was three grades harder. At this point I also realise we don’t have the guidebook…

Minutes later, Dave joins me at the belay station and I inform him of the breaking news. He handles it well and is happy to lead through up the next pitch. We can see it’s an OK slab start but have no idea what grade it is or where it leads to. Half way up and Dave shouts “which way?”, his inclination is to go right. I reply “I think it’s left and then straight up!” After some deliberation, the sport climber in him takes over and he tackles the slab head on. It looks tough, but he battles his way up on some tiny crimpy holds, managing to get a cam in for some protection; before long he is at the top red faced and out of breath. “Good effort pal, are you safe?” I shout. “About as safe as it gets, I’m on top of a f**ing pillar!” I hope there’s enough room for two of us up there, I think, as I start to climb. A short while later, after bridging my way up through a chimney (I take the trad route), I join him on the top. Believe me, it’s definitely not designed for two! The only way off is to untie from the rope and abseil off. Fifteen minutes later, we’re both stood on a shelf looking back up at the huge pillar of rock; we can hear Ben on the other side, battling his way up the pillar.

We now have two options: make a series of abseils to try and retrieve our rope and bail off the route, or tackle what we believe is a 6A corner leading to a large hand jamming crack. We both agree the corner looks like a great pitch – I take the lead, onwards and upwards for another fifteen metres of fantastic rock starting with a layback crack. I stop halfway up and manage a hands-off rest, perched on top of a flake. I snap a photo of Ben and Dave H on top of the pillar – then continue on – I arrive at a large belay ledge and bring up Dave C. From here we can see an easy down climb/scramble and a great spot for lunch; we’ve certainly worked up an appetite!

 

Ben and Dave H tackling the Pillar

 

Within a short while all four of us are sat on the rocks laughing at the situation we had just got ourselves out of. We settle for the relatively easy last two pitches up the exposed arête of La Somone; the finish to our original planned route that leads to the summit. It’s about two hours later before we’re sat outside La Bergerie de Planpraz, at the half way ski lift station, enjoying a well-deserved cold beer and taking in the magnificent vista overlooking the Mont Blanc massif.

“Cheers everyone, to the next adventure!…”

 

 

 

5 Aug 2016

Snakes and Ladders

by | posted in: 2016 | 2

 

Snakes and Ladders – A climber’s tale (July 2016)

The original plan this weekend was to continue working our way through the 100 classic climbs of North Wales; however, Mother Nature had other plans for us. As the rain bucketed we decided to revert to plan B – we were about to embark on an epic slate adventure, known as the infamous snakes and ladders (and tunnels).

 

Dali’s hole and California

It was about eleven o clock before the four of us rocked up at Bus Stop quarry; head to toe in Goretex we set off into the slate quarries for the beginning of our slate odyssey. A short walk led us to our first landmark a surreal place named Dali’s hole – from here we navigate through a couple of tunnels and into California where we had our first glimpse of the long iron chain that hung from the tunnel above. A lengthy silence from all in the group suggested there were no immediate volunteers for the first lead, but then up steps Jack for the challenge. So without further ado, let battle commence…. 40 minutes later and all in one piece we complete the climb and stand at the entrance to the tunnel feeling pretty elated.

hanging onclimbing the chainTasmania and Australia

At the end of the tunnel we abseil from a birch tree down a soaked, slippery slate wall and begin the search in Tasmania for a concealed tunnel. With four pairs of eyes on the job we quickly discover it – remove our rucksacks – squeeze ourselves in and stumble our way through an obstacle course that is ankle deep in water. We arrive into Australia with a few bumps and bruises and are faced with two options to get us up to the next level, both of which look equally unappealing. Therefore, we unanimously decide to head right and scramble over the loose slate, which was interesting to say the least, especially as the rain persisted. Eventually we arrive at a grassy terrace area where we come across the first ladder, which is notably now seriously out of commission. A quick alternative scramble over shiny, wet slate boulders has us up on the next level and ready for the next ladder – half a dozen rusty iron ladders later see’s us at the top section of the slate mines, which contain a number of interesting old disused buildings. We stop here for a well-deserved brew and to take brief shelter from the rain.

 

Heading into Australia

The Lost World

Next stop is to find the Lost World; admittedly this was quite a challenge and was a little time consuming. However, eventually we stumble across it and find the abseil point on the right hand side overlooked by the Dinorwig unconquerable E3, 5C. A couple of abseils, followed by a series of down climb ladders finds us at ground level of the Lost World jungle. Here we take a quick look around this amazing place and then it’s time to exit via another tunnel into the infamous Mordor.

 

great ladder of MordorMordor

At this point in the day the two paper guides I had brought along for directions were no longer legible, as the endless torrent of rain had resulted in them forming into paper Mache in my pocket. As a result, we mistakenly decide to down climb the three ladders of Mordor and wander knee deep in water through the only tunnel for approximately a quarter of a mile… until we reach a dead end! After several attempts of trying to squeeze through, we agree this is not the way out. We begin to feel a little claustrophobic, but then the mood is quickly lightened by Dave suggesting that, “perhaps next time we should laminate the guide”! It was then, as we stood in the cold, wet, darkness we remember that when we first entered Mordor (which seemed like hours ago) there was another ladder heading up. So without further ado we make a hasty retreat back out of the tunnel, by now our feet and socks soaked, and climb the three ladders to the entrance level. We then skirt the quarry and climb the great ladder, taking care not to fall to the depths below.

 

 

 

Khyber Pass

At this stage, the general consensus is to get out of the rain and head to the sanctuary of Pete’s Eats, a few minor details such as the perilous steps from one incomplete wobbly ladder to another is not going to hinder us. As we reach the top of the last ladder, or so we think, there’s another ancient, slippery, rusty iron ladder waiting to be climbed; finally we emerge at the Khyber Pass. From here we take a short walk to the collapsed ‘bridge of death’ – skirt around the re-entrant to the other side on some loose slate – stop to snap a few photos and contemplate the journey, whilst all secretly feeling quite pleased that the ‘bridge of death’ had collapsed as I don’t think any of us was up for that one.

 

bridge of death no more

 

By now the homing pigeon in us had taken over and we quickly scramble over some scree – hop over a couple of fences – walk down an old railway track and back onto the safety of the footpath with the next challenge in mind. Do I go for Big Jim’s or the Monster omelette and chips????

Cheers to Dave, Giles and Jack for joining me on this epic adventure, I’m sure we’ll be back one day in the dry….

 

 

2 Mar 2016

Winter in the High Atlas Mountains

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Marrakech, Imlil and beyond

We set aside one night to experience the hustle & bustle of Jema el-Fnaa, the main square and souk marketplace in Marrakesh‘s medina quarter (old city). The place transforms at dusk,  people come out for an early evening promenade and the square gradually fills until it becomes a whole carnival of storytellers, acrobats, musicians and entertainers.The following day we head 50 miles south, away from the mayhem to Imlil a small Berber village on the outskirts of the high Atlas Mountains. At 1740 metres above sea level it is the starting point for most people heading up into the high atlas for trekking. The Atlas mountain range is special in that it is a natural barrier between the Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines and a buffer to the Sahara Desert. The mountains extend almost 2400 kilometers through Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.

From Imlil it’s a steady 6 hr trek to the huts with about 1500m of ascent. Passing through Aroumd (rugs) and the half way point of Sidi Chamharouch, where the snow line begins, here we have to negotiate over the mule/porter ?!, the path then leads over the stream and runs steeply uphill to the right side of the Isougouane valley and becomes a trudging snow plod. It’s certainly possible to do this with no support if you have a large rucksack and no other luggage. However, bear in mind the ascent and altitude and you may decide to use the excuse of “supporting the local economy” and take a mule. We chucked our kit in large duffel bags to include ice climbing and extreme weather gear & some food in addition to normal winter mountaineering stuff. Note :mules don’t go above the snowline. So make sure you arrange a porter bend otherwise you will have to struggle with your own bags and rucksacks…

Les Mouflons hut & Base camp 3207 metres

The private Les Mouflons hut has no heating at all but they have a roaring log fire going in the main room and do some great carb loaded meals in the evening and simple breakfast. We stay here for the next four nights and although it is below freezing in the dorm we like it. You need a good, warm sleeping bag for the hut & spare clothing and and ice scraper for the window in the morning, so factor this in when deciding for or against the use of a four legged friend to carry your gear…

At the end of each day there’s time to relax, dry your wet stuff in front of the fire and practice speaking a multitude of languages as per the other trekkers staying at the refuge, before dinner at around 7pm. As early starts are the norm in most mountain huts, early nights are advisable, however there is a fire in the communal area and some guests do stay there until late especially if they have already summited and are heading back to Marrakech.

  

Jebel Toubkal (4167m)  

The highest and most climbed peak in North Africa, we plan to climb it via the North cwm north col route to experience the mountain at its best and hopefully to ourselves, so an early start was required in order to get back down before the deep snow started melting making it a tiring slog. Conditions were cold, but perfect, with the snow having a hard crust on the walk down the valley, very quickly the ground steepens and it’s a bit of a drag up to the cwm, we are looking out for an aircraft wreckage but there is no sign of it with the deep snow covering, so we head for a prominent broad gully at the back of the cwm, It’s a straight forward Grade 1 gulley but the effects of altitude make for slow progress, at the top we hit the ridge line and turn right and a steepening scramble leads us towards the summit plateau and the first glimpse of the summit Triangle after 5/12 hrs. We have the summit to ourselves, photos done, views admired it’s time for the descent, we take the South cwm south col route via Tizi n Toubkal, it’s a steady route and it’s the first time we come across other people all day, we arrive back at the hut after about 8 hrs.

 

Ice climbing in the Sun !

We dedicated ourselves a full day for this in between the two 4000 metre mountaineering days, the objective today was to walk the shortest distance to get the most ice climbing done, both of which were satisfied. We found a gorge with a frozen waterfall a short walk south from the hut and abseiled in to the base of the climbs; we set up a few different climbs and spent an amazing day ice climbing in the warm sun.

Akioud (4030m) (via Tizi Afella)

The plan today was to head further south than we ventured yesterday into Amrharas n-Iglioua and take the North north-west ridge (PD+) to the summit. At least that was the plan anyway until we decided to take a diversion due to the snow being soft as the sun was already out in full force, this resulted in us heading for the shade where the firmer snow was and as a result we arrived at Tizi Afella. This was not recommended in the guidebook as it necessitates an awkward descent, traverse and re-ascent back up to the NNW ridge! The snow condition looked good so we took the challenge, ice axes gripped firmly in hand, we were not disappointed, some great exposure on the traverse with steep slopes falling away to our right, leading us onto the final ridge line to scramble to reach the summit. Once again we sat at the summit on our own watching the ant like people on the busy neighbouring summits of Ras and Timesguida.

20 Sep 2014

Mont Blanc – The Roof Top to Europe

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North Wales rock and snow

The idea to climb Mont Blanc came about after Dave and I met up one evening in Ye Old Murrenger House in my home town of Newport. Having lost touch and not climbed together in over fifteen years it was a quick decision. After reminiscing over a few beers, we came up with a plan, which was agreed to take place in seven months. Prior to this, Dave would head north to Snowdonia most weekends, in which we would scramble and climb together on some of the famous classic rock routes in North Wales, to gain the necessary alpine skills. We planned the route and necessary acclimatisation stages to give us the best chance of summiting and booked the mountain refuges before we left for Chamonix, our base for the trip.

Italy and back again…

We arrived at our chalet in Cham in the early hours of the morning due to a delay at the airport. Not the best start to the trip. After a few hours sleep, we are up, out and on our way into the town centre, heading to the Italian side of the Alps to acclimatise overnight. We take the early morning cable car from Chamonix town centre up to the Aiguille du Midi top station at 3842 metres, the thermometer at the top station registers minus nineteen degrees Celsius; it’s bitterly cold with the additional wind chill as we exit the cable car. Twenty minutes later we walk out through the ice tunnel, roped together, passing the photographers into a glorious sunshine filled blue sky and exit through the gate onto the magnificent snow arête, which makes up the Midi East ridge.

Ice axe gripped and crampons fitted we head slowly down the exposed ridge – the Crib Goch traverse we did back in North Wales in full winter conditions is no match for this. From here it’s approximately five hours of walking across the glacial valley (Valle Blanche) towards Italy avoiding the crevasses and passing under seracs. This is easier said than done, as we both have our moments stumbling waist deep into small crevasses.

When we eventually arrive at the Refuge Torino, sunburned and dehydrated we are told there is no reservation! but can stay at the old refuge, this means descending a further 228 steps. The accommodation at the hut is fine, but we have a disturbed night’s sleep due to thunderstorms and the effects of altitude at 3375 metres (1.2kms directly above the MB tunnel). The following morning we ascend the 228 steps for the fourth and final time and head north back towards France and our start point from yesterday, the views are spectacular, but the snow is deeper following last night’s storm and the going is tough. We get back to the snow arête just gone midday and the sun is feeling warm on our backs and the snow is starting to melt, not the best conditions for our ascent. As we start the climb back up we can hear a woman screaming on the descent, obviously not enjoying here first experience on the snow arête; we stand to one side as she passes with her guide holding her tightly on the rope. We head back up & take the cable back down to Cham where we spend the night at a low level of 1000 metres.

On Route to the Refuge de Tete Rousse

The following morning we head out early again, grabbing some freshly baked croissants from our chalet and take the free bus service to Les Houches, and then cable car to Bellevue Station. From here we take the Tramway du Mont Blanc up to the Nid d’Aigle (the eagle’s nest) at 2372 metres, we then head south on foot and pick up a rough rocky path, up the ridge of the Aiguille du Gouter. We pass mountaineers coming back down who have not summited due to bad weather conditions. As the rocky ridge line separating the Griaz and Tete Rousse Glaciers gains height the scenery just gets better and better. After a few hours of scrambling the refuge comes into sight, including several tents that are pitched nearby – we briefly stop to put crampons on to cross the glacier, we are now above the snowline and head in for the night at 3167 metres. Up above in the distance we can just make out the silhouette of the Gouter hut perched high on the cliffs.

Next stop Gouter Hut

The following morning we take a leisurely breakfast whilst we watch the snow storm conditions outside. We weren’t going anywhere until it eases… Four hours later after a conversation with the hut guardian and a phone call to the Gouter hut to ensure there are still beds available for us, we’re off again and heading through the snow, which continues to fall. We scramble up the ridge towards the Grand Couloir and arrive to find a Swiss guide with two clients negotiating their way across. A quick assessment of the amount of snow above suggests that the rock-fall should be minimal so we clip into the metal wire and head across quickly – we don’t stop to Pass Go or collect £200, just unclip, take in coils and continue scrambling up the south side of the ridge to the Aiguille du Gouter. As we gain height the snow underfoot turns to ice, so as a safety precaution we clip into the pre-installed cables, which leads us to the old Gouter hut. The view from here is fantastic, or so we have been told… As we are not blessed with an opportunity for photos today, so push on up a short snow slope to a flattening and then a few minutes later the impressive design of the Gouter hut comes into view at 3815 metres. It looks like it’s bolted to the side of the cliff and should be in a Bond film, the first question that springs to mind: How the f..k did they build that up here ?!


The Waiting Game

When we finally remove our outdoor gear and enter the hut we’re given a warm welcome by the handful of mountaineers already there, we get ourselves squared away in our dorm and head back for an evening meal of soup & pasta. At this point the hut guardian hits us with the bad news that the summit is out of the question tomorrow due to further snow and thunderstorms. So, we just have to wait and pass time by playing cards and working our way through the library of mountaineering literature left behind by previous climbers. The snow storms still do not ease and we are now concerned that we may not have enough time to go on any further and may have to go back down. Eventually twenty four hours later the guardian announces “breakfast will be served at 2 am”. A joyful cheer erupts, the waiting game is over, the summit is game on! The atmosphere in the hut immediately changes to one of excitement, and then urgency, as people begin organising and packing their kit ready for the off.

Monte Bianco (4807m)

It’s nearly half one in the morning when the first person in our dorm starts getting dressed by torch light, clearly trying to be quiet but not succeeding – I’ve not slept a wink due to altitude – within minutes the whole dorm is up and rushing to get ready. We grab something quick for breakfast and kit up in the outer building. It’s a clear night sky, with good visibility and temperatures are below minus twenty as we move out into the darkness up towards the Dome du Gouter.

We soon warm up on the steep slopes as we commence a slow but steady pace, the snow is deep from the recent snow storms making it leg sapping work. As we gain height the wind chill kicks in dropping the temperature further, it’s bitterly cold and my hands are freezing as I only have liners on but we decide not to stop until we reach the emergency Vallot hut. We enter the hut after climbing up a steep snow slope about two and a half hours later, the temperature is minus thirty something, my hands are so cold I struggle to add extra layers and over gloves. Dave helps and then attempts to drink from his water bottle but its frozen solid, my hot drink satisfies our requirements instead. A quick protein bar down the hatch and it’s time to get back outside and head up the exposed snow ridge for the summit. It’s still a tough long slog, in which we are battered constantly by the near gale force winds on the infamous Boissons ridge. At one point we stop and contemplate turning back, thankfully, the dawn sun makes its appearance and immediately the sun has a warming effect making it bearable again. We continue to push on up the exposed ridge to eventually arrive at the summit approximately three and a half hours later. We’re behind our scheduled time so have to cut short our summit celebrations and settle for a hand shake. As we stand on the roof top to Europe and take in the view, reality kicks in, we’re only half way and we have to get back down to the valley before the last tram leaves, as we fly home first thing tomorrow.

It’s all downhill from here

The next few hours involve us moving downhill at a rapid rate of knots, its warmer now as the sun is high above. We pass the Vallot hut and continue towards the Gouter, passing other mountaineers heading up towards the summit, no time to stop we have a train to catch. As we approach the old hut I catch one of my crampons on my goretex trousers sending me flying, face first down a snow slope, I make good use of my ice axe to brake my fall and I lie there laughing hysterically. I struggle to my feet, my legs are feeling heavy now, we’ve been going for about ten hours, it’s a perfect opportunity to remove layers and eat before continuing our descent towards the grand couloir. The ridge is still icy so we clip to the steel ropes and continue downwards carefully heading towards the grand couloir, when we arrive its almost midday and the risk from rockfall is much higher than on the way up as the snow above is already melting. We decide to leg it across this time and do not bother clipping to the cable, this proves to be a good choice as we shave minutes off the return crossing. On the other side the descent it’s mostly rock and scree scrambling so we remove crampons and push on until we arrive at the Tete Rousse. We’ve made good time, from here it’s about another  two hours to the tramway, we should make it before the last tram departs…..